Sean Doherty

I really like this book and I enjoy Sean Doherty's books in general - but it really needed a hard edit. I liked the different perspectives on events at the start, but it just became annoying and didn't add anything to the book. Just a lot of repetition. The book could've been 100 pages shorter. Still a great book though.

Great history, great writer - good match. I'm not sure that the year by year approach worked as most felt like a short bio on each surfer. I really enjoyed though how Doherty tried to overlap the narratives from one surfer to the next, that was pretty cool. Makes the surf world seem pretty small.

Incredible story, character and era of surfing. I couldn't put it down. Triumph and tragedy. So much in this read...

This is a biography of the enigmatic ex Gold Coast surfer Michael Peterson. The book charts Michaels slide into the abyss of scizophrenia and consequently readers obtain an understanding of his bizarre behaviour and enigmatic status