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Twelve Days in Persia: Across the Mountains with the Bakhtiari Tribe (1928)

di Vita Sackville-West

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"A year after Vita Sackville-West first travelled to Iran -- a journey described in the classic Passenger to Teheran -- she returned to the land that had so captured her imagination. For twelve days, with her husband and three friends, she embarked on a difficult and often dangerous journey through the rugged and wildly-beautiful Bakhtiari Mountains of south-western Iran. It was a landscape that affected Sackville-West profoundly, inspiring what is arguably some of her most lyrical prose; in the same year she wrote her acclaimed poem, The Land. Interwoven with her magical descriptions of the landscape, she also wrote of her encounters with the Bakhtiari tribe as they embarked on their epic annual migration. The way of life of the Bakhtiari, a people claiming descent from Fereydun, hero of the Shahnameh, has now all but disappeared, the result of persecution by Reza Shah and the encroachments and temptations of modernity. Sackville-West's descriptions of their everyday life are thus a valuable and illuminating portrayal a vanished world"--P. [4] of cover.… (altro)
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Twelve Days in Persia: Across the Mountains with the Bakhtiari Tribe by Vita Sackville-West is an account of her though present day Iran. Sackville-West is perhaps one of the most interesting English writers of her time. She lived many different lives and lived them well. She was a writer of fiction, essays, travel, and poetry. She also ran off with her female lovers at times. Later she became a renowned gardener. I see her living her life like a rock star.

Much of Sackville-Wests writing is hard to find. My copy of this book contains no title page or publisher information. It is like someone printed out the pdf file and put it in a paperback binding. I have found some of her older books, some first editions, through European booksellers. Project Gutenberburg Canada (http://gutenberg.ca/) has also digitized some of her harder to find work.

Sackville-West wrote of her journey to Tehran to meet her husband who was serving in the foreign ministry. This book is her second account of Persia that was carried out on foot and mule of very rough terrain. Today one would not give a second thought to a woman making such a journey if the present political situation in Iran allowed it. But, this was the mid-1920s and uncivilized still had meaning in remote areas of the world. Furthermore, Sackville-West was Lady Nicholson. One would not expect a woman with a title to be roughing it in a land where armed escorts were needed and mingling with the local people. She in her adventures and writing was someone who clearly made being female extraneous. She was an equal. Someone reading this book without knowing the author would probably assume it was written by a male. In fact, in her previous book Passage to Teheran, it is not until the last page that she reveals that the writer is female.

Twelve Days gives an interesting account of leaving Teheran and exploring the wilderness of South-West Iran. Where the(poor) roads end and the mule train begins is the heart of the adventure. The sights and the dealings with the locals and tribal leaders are described in detail. Sackville-West had a keen eye and much of what she recorded will show up in later writings of fiction and in here poem The Land. Her writing is more than a travel diary. She connects with the people and the land to make it an enjoyable read rather than a report or journal entry. Throughout her life, Vita Sackville-West sought adventure and challenged the restrictions of society. Twelve Days is not only an account of Persia but of the writer herself. ( )
  evil_cyclist | Mar 16, 2020 |
Vita Sackville-West strikes me as underrated. The descriptive passages here are exquisite, and this ranks among the best in travel writing in my view. True, I found the chapter on how she would transform Persia's system of government a bit trying and silly, but it says a great deal about her and how she and others in her background viewed the world. ( )
  PatsyMurray | Jun 7, 2018 |
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Grant me however this one favour: permit me to take a holiday, like one of those men of indolent minds, who are wont to feast themselves on their own thoughts whenever they travel alone. Such persons, you know, before they have found out any means of effecting their wishes, pass that by, to avoid the fatigue of thinking whether such wishes are practicable or not, and assume that what they desire is already theirs. - Plato
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For a long time I believed it would be impossible to make a book out of these experiences; I could see no shape in them, no pleasing curve: nothing but a series of anti-climaxes, and too much repetition of what I had done, and written down, before.
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"A year after Vita Sackville-West first travelled to Iran -- a journey described in the classic Passenger to Teheran -- she returned to the land that had so captured her imagination. For twelve days, with her husband and three friends, she embarked on a difficult and often dangerous journey through the rugged and wildly-beautiful Bakhtiari Mountains of south-western Iran. It was a landscape that affected Sackville-West profoundly, inspiring what is arguably some of her most lyrical prose; in the same year she wrote her acclaimed poem, The Land. Interwoven with her magical descriptions of the landscape, she also wrote of her encounters with the Bakhtiari tribe as they embarked on their epic annual migration. The way of life of the Bakhtiari, a people claiming descent from Fereydun, hero of the Shahnameh, has now all but disappeared, the result of persecution by Reza Shah and the encroachments and temptations of modernity. Sackville-West's descriptions of their everyday life are thus a valuable and illuminating portrayal a vanished world"--P. [4] of cover.

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