We all know who climbed to the summit of Everest in 1953. This book documents how one of those two (Tensing Norgay) with two Swiss expeditions pioneered the route twice the previous year. These men came tantalizingly close to the summit, only to be driven back by cold and fatigue. The main part of the book is Dittert's account of the spring climb. The second part is a diary style record of the autumn/winter assault by Chevalley and Lambert. This is a magnificent story, vividly told, of immense historical importance. Indeed without the food and oxygen left by this party on the South Col, perhaps Hillary and Tensing would not have reached the summit when they did? ( )