Having gone over to the US for a wedding in Luray, Virginia, Hannah and I decided to extend our stay by booking a week, almost at random, on a farm in rural Pennsylvania. It turned out to be a beautiful eighteenth-century cottage predating the Declaration of Independence, and lying in the heart of Amish country – low, slightly hilly land, spread with vast fields of corn, yellow wheat, green soybeans, occasional tobacco, grain silos poking up on the horizon, covered wooden bridges and horse-drawn buggies on the backroads, white-tailed deer darting across the highway in nervous groups, turkey vultures circling overhead, chow-chow and shoofly pie chalked up on the wall of every roadside diner we passed.

Having done none of our usual pre-trip research (forward planning nowadays basically doesn't extend much further than working out how to keep two small kids occupied on a nine-hour flight), we were completely taken aback when we realised that not only could we follow overheard conversations in the Pennsylvania German used by Old Order Amish families, but that it sounded exactly like the Swiss German we've been trying to learn at home. This turned out to be for the very good reason that the Amish who originally settled here were Swiss – indeed, in that particular area, many came from the small towns along the south shore of Lake Zurich where we now live. Even the local surnames were the same as those familiar to us at home. It was incredible.

I had somehow not known that the Amish are really Swiss Anabaptists in all but name (a name that is itself taken from Jakob Ammann, who was from near Berne). Along with half of Europe's persecuted religious minorities, the early Amish and other Mennonites headed across the Atlantic when William Penn announced that he'd be allowing complete freedom of religion throughout his territory (monotheists only, terms and conditions may apply).

Although this book warns against the idea that Amish society is a kind of frozen museum, it's hard not to escape the tempting conclusion that when you look at these farmsteads you're seeing a snapshot of Swiss community life from the early 1700s. It's a lifestyle that has managed to preserve its essentials remarkably well, and despite early predictions that it would soon die out, the number of Amish has risen steadily, thanks mainly to the huge birth rate – Kraybill notes that among the Amish, it's not unusual for someone to have more than seventy-five first cousins, and many grandmothers have more than fifty grandchildren. This makes for a very sociable, community-oriented life, and I must say, ill-informed and over-romantic though I am, as I drive around the area the Amish way of life does not seem unappealing. (Now I just have to do some more much-needed reading on the Swiss Reformation….) ( )

A guide to Amish life in Lancaster County, PA. Explains the origins of the faith and how the Amish are compromising with modern life whilst preserving the tenets of their faith and way of life. DQMH, 2015.