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The Duke of Puddle Dock: Travels in the Footsteps of Stamford Raffles

di Nigel Barley

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"The brute facts of Stamford Raffles's life are simple enough: he was born the son of an impoverished sea captain in 1781; at fourteen he joined the East India Company as an office boy and worked his way up to become a minor official on the island of Penang, off the coast of present-day Malaysia. Out of the blue, he was appointed Governor of Java. In 1819 he founded Singapore. However, the rest of his life is wrapped in a frowsy shroud of imperial velvet." "Distrustful of the few primary sources available, Nigel Barley puts himself in Raffles's skin, exploring his traces in the stone and memories of the East and identifying those places Raffles invented or transformed. In the author's sure hands we meet not one Raffles but many. Dr. Barley takes us, literally and imaginatively, from Malacca to Java, Bali to Singapore. Sometimes his journey reveals the ghost of Raffles: in overgrown forts, lost gardens, poignant British cemeteries and dusty libraries. But he also brings us to the institutions that ostentatiously keep the great man's name alive today, such as the immaculate Raffles Institution in Singapore, with its optimistic motto, "The Hope of a Better Age."" "We discover other societies too--vibrant, confusing and colorful, whose different versions of their history turn out to be a rickety framework for knowledge. And we meet unforgettable characters, including a hotel-keep who holds a room in reserve for the Goddess of the South Seas. Finally, we confront Raffles's greatest personal triumph, the discovery of Raffles arnoldi, a vast parasitic flower, a meter across, big enough to hold a gallon and a half of fluid. Beyond the glories of empire, Raffles's true pride, Barley discovers, is that of a botanist."--BOOK JACKET.Title Summary field provided by Blackwell North America, Inc. All Rights Reserved… (altro)
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On the remote chance that anyone reading this review also actually plans to read this obscure book, I urge you to pay heed to the full title: “The Duke of Puddle Dock. Travels in the Footsteps of Stamford Raffles”. The book is far more about the unfocused self-indulgent ramblings and musings of the author, describing his travels in southeast Asia, than it is about the ostensible subject, Sir Stamford Raffles. Keep in mind also that the author is an anthropologist who unapologetically despises the group of Homo sapiens called tourists, with a particular bias against Aussie tourists. The book takes the form of interspersed brief descriptions of Raffles' life and times, similarly brief quotations from Raffles' own writings or those of his contemporaries who knew him, and much more protracted descriptions of Dr. Barley's experiences in trying to find surviving traces of Raffles in Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. Most of the places the author describes in the book sound interesting, if you can get past all the anthropological observations about the specific inhabitants he encounters or the general cultures he experiences. Sometimes his observations are amusing. I'm not sure I'd go so far as to call them witty, as the writer of the book's dust jacket trumpets. For an example of his dry humor, I quote from Chapter 12: Empires of the Imagination. “He held out an arm decorated with a great X of sticking plaster, as in a children's comic. Either scholarship was taken more seriously here than in England or other forces had been in play. I could not remember the last time one of my lectures had ended in a knife fight.” Try never! The author tries hard, almost too hard at times, to portray himself as the objective, non-judgmental observer of the citizens of the countries he visits, while simultaneously exposing himself as highly judgmental toward all visitors except himself.

It was pure stubbornness, and a misbegotten hope that the book would improve, that led me to keep slogging until I finished it. I came away feeling as though I had learned less than nothing useful about Raffles the person, or his life - the little about him that could be gleaned from the book was so scattered both in spacing throughout the text, and in chronology of Raffles' life, that it was confusing more than enlightening. The comparisons between Raffles and Sukarno that dominated a portion of the book seemed forced, a thinly disguised excuse for plopping Barley's observations about Sukarno into the text. And by the end of the book I felt I had learned almost nothing useful about modern southeast Asia either. My rating of 2 stars for this colossal waste of time is only for the flashes of humor to be found in it...truly insufficient reason for anyone to invest their time reading this book. If ever there was a case of a book being over-hyped in descriptions on Amazon and in the book's dust jacket, this is it. ( )
  arctangent | Mar 4, 2011 |
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"The brute facts of Stamford Raffles's life are simple enough: he was born the son of an impoverished sea captain in 1781; at fourteen he joined the East India Company as an office boy and worked his way up to become a minor official on the island of Penang, off the coast of present-day Malaysia. Out of the blue, he was appointed Governor of Java. In 1819 he founded Singapore. However, the rest of his life is wrapped in a frowsy shroud of imperial velvet." "Distrustful of the few primary sources available, Nigel Barley puts himself in Raffles's skin, exploring his traces in the stone and memories of the East and identifying those places Raffles invented or transformed. In the author's sure hands we meet not one Raffles but many. Dr. Barley takes us, literally and imaginatively, from Malacca to Java, Bali to Singapore. Sometimes his journey reveals the ghost of Raffles: in overgrown forts, lost gardens, poignant British cemeteries and dusty libraries. But he also brings us to the institutions that ostentatiously keep the great man's name alive today, such as the immaculate Raffles Institution in Singapore, with its optimistic motto, "The Hope of a Better Age."" "We discover other societies too--vibrant, confusing and colorful, whose different versions of their history turn out to be a rickety framework for knowledge. And we meet unforgettable characters, including a hotel-keep who holds a room in reserve for the Goddess of the South Seas. Finally, we confront Raffles's greatest personal triumph, the discovery of Raffles arnoldi, a vast parasitic flower, a meter across, big enough to hold a gallon and a half of fluid. Beyond the glories of empire, Raffles's true pride, Barley discovers, is that of a botanist."--BOOK JACKET.Title Summary field provided by Blackwell North America, Inc. All Rights Reserved

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