Drawn to Mexico by her powerful curiosity about this ancient land, Isabella Tree embarks on a journey to get to the heart of its complex and colourful culture. She takes part in shamanic rituals with the Maya; revels through the night with transvestites in Juchitan; awaits spirits in an ancient graveyard on Lake Patzcuaro; joins an Indian pilgrimage in the Sierra Madre; and spends a bloodthirsty Easter among self-flagellating penitents.