Meg Lukens Noonan

Meg Lukens Noonan wrote The Coat Route after reading of an overcoat made by Sydney tailor John Cutler for $50,000. The book is a loving description of the fine materials and expert labour that went into creating this unique garment. Noonan tells us the stories behind the vicuna wool, the fabric, the silk, the horn buttons and the other elements of the coat's construction. Along the way she gives us potted histories of Savile Row, the Andean vicuna industry, the Yorkshire mill towns, button manufacture and Italian designer fashion. We meet some larger-than-life characters, but we are never too far from the realisation that all of this history is at risk of soon being swept away by the tide of mass manufacturing in the modern world. The Coat Route is a delightful and interesting read, with an elegiac tinge of sadness to it.… (altro)

The author takes us into the fading world of bespoke tailored clothing. She enters this world through curiosity from a news item about a 50K coat. Having no background in textiles, tailoring, or fashion she thoroughly researches each element of a particular vicuna overcoat tailored to the individual's specification. This is the world of bespoke.

The story introduces us to a specific Australian tailor, J.H. Cutler, as well as the general group of tailors on Saville Row in London. From there the author takes us to the Andes to learn about the vicuna, a rare fiber from and endangered species. Similar research goes into the lining fabric and the buttons for this very special coat.

Through out the book, the author shares the deep appreciation she gains for the the craftsmanship, quality and attention to detail that is quickly being lost to fast fashion and cheap labor.

Finally at the end of the book, we are introduced to the consumers of bespoke clothing. An interesting group of privileged gentleman who have specific tastes and needs relative to clothing.

This book was fascinating to me as a weaver, spinner, and sewer. At first I was skeptical that the author could take on the topic in depth, but she has done a great job with her research in understanding the nuances of the topic she has undertaken.… (altro)