Most travelers to eastern Puerto Rico come to see and hike El Yunque, the island's second-most-visited tourist destination after Old San Juan, and probably the world's most user-friendly rain forest. Others come for the east coast's three sprawling resort hotels, half a dozen excellent golf courses, the US Navy base, and one of the biggest yachting and sailing charter ports in the Caribbean. But this side of the island has much to offer that eludes most visitors to Puerto Rico, from a glorious, six-mile stretch of deserted beach between Luquillo and Las Cabezas de San Juan, to the red cliffs and lonely lighthouse in the southeast. As with most places, you have to scratch the surface to find the hidden rewards here. Spend a day or two wandering around Loi?za Aldea and talking to locals (or attending their fiestas patronales in late July) to get a deeper understanding of Afro-Caribbean culture. One of the old fishermen of Las Croabas may take you cay-hopping in his wooden sloop, setting you down on some deserted islet to swim in opaque waters. Local surfers gather at a few little-known breaks. Or visit one of the two other nature reserves on the east coast - Las Cabezas to San Juan and Humacao - where exotic waterfowl, mangrove and dry tropical forest ecosystems and a bioluminescent lagoon await. This guide tells you all about the history and culture of Puerto Rico, how to get there and how to get around, the general information you need. Then it zeros in on the eastern coastal area and all its places to stay and eat, the things to see and do, the fiestas, historic sites, museums, markets - everything you need to know. Filled with maps and photographs.